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At mile 62, when the canyon temperature has been above 95°F for five hours and the climb out of El Dorado is behind you and Foresthill is still ahead, Western States asks a direct question: how well did you prepare for this? The course is not technically difficult by 100-mile standards. The heat is. That distinction — and what to do about it — is what this guide is for.
The Course, Section by Section
Western States runs 100.2 miles from Olympic Valley to Auburn, point-to-point through the Sierra Nevada. It was the first 100-mile trail race, established in 1977, and its structure still defines how most runners think about the distance. The elevation profile tells part of the story. The temperature does not appear on the profile.
Squaw Valley to Robinson Flat (miles 0–30). The race starts at 6,200 feet and immediately climbs the Escarpment to 8,750 feet — 2,550 feet in four miles that most runners hike at the start of a long day. Snow is possible before Robinson Flat in years with heavy winter snowpack. Sea-level runners feel the altitude here more than anywhere else on the course. By Robinson Flat at mile 30, you should feel controlled and patient. Runners who push this section tend to notice it 30 miles later.
Robinson Flat to Foresthill (miles 30–62). This is the race. Devil's Thumb, El Dorado Canyon, the climb out of the Volcano Canyon — the canyons drop and climb repeatedly as temperatures build through the afternoon. By the time you're descending into the American River canyon before Michigan Bluff, canyon temperatures routinely exceed 100°F. The finish rate at Western States is typically 60–70%, and the majority of DNFs happen in this section, not from injury but from heat that was underestimated in training.
Foresthill to the River Crossing (miles 62–78). Foresthill at mile 62 is the most consequential crew access point on the course. Pacers join here. This is where you change shoes, eat, get assessed, and decide what kind of final 38 miles you're capable of. The Cal Street section is fast and runnable as darkness arrives. Rucky Chucky at roughly mile 78 is a rope-assisted river crossing — waist-deep, cold, and genuinely welcome after the canyons.
The River to Auburn (miles 78–100). The Quarry Road climb is short but arrives at a moment when short and steep are both difficult. Robie Point at mile 98.9 brings the first sounds of the finish. The last mile runs on the Placer High School track in Auburn — 400 meters of stadium lights at whatever hour you've managed to arrive.
Essential Gear
The mandatory gear list for Western States is shorter than most European mountain ultras — there are no storm shelters or emergency bivouacs required. The gear decisions here are about heat management and the specific demands of a point-to-point course with crew access every 5–8 miles.
Western States Essential Gear
For complete buying advice on any of these categories, see our gear guides.
Getting There
Western States is a point-to-point race — the start in Olympic Valley and the finish in Auburn are 80 miles apart by road. Every logistics decision follows from that fact.
Flying in: Sacramento (SMF) is the primary airport, about two hours from Olympic Valley and 30 minutes from Auburn. Reno (RNO) is roughly an hour from the start. Most crews split their time between the two ends of the course, which requires coordinating two vehicles or arranging shuttle transportation between them.
Accommodation: Lodging near the start in Olympic Valley and Truckee books within weeks of lottery results in December — sometimes within days. If you were drawn, book immediately. The finish-line base in Auburn moves more slowly but is essential for post-race recovery and the Sunday awards ceremony. Plan for at least three nights: Wednesday through Saturday night, with the option to stay Sunday if you want to see the ceremony.
Search for lodging near the start in Olympic Valley or Truckee, or near the finish in Auburn.
Training Priorities
Three things separate runners who finish Western States from those who DNF in the canyon section.
Heat adaptation is the defining challenge. More than vertical gain, more than distance, the canyons are the race. Research on deliberate heat acclimation is well-established: 10–14 days of regular heat exposure before the race — sauna sessions at 170–190°F for 30–45 minutes after a run, or intentionally running in heat rather than avoiding it — measurably increases plasma volume, sweat rate, and heat tolerance. Start four weeks out. The runners who go into the canyon section well-adapted don't just suffer less; they run faster.
Downhill durability is underestimated. Western States has 22,970 feet of descent — more than many comparable 100-milers and distributed across long, runnable descents that destroy unprepared quads. The descent from the Escarpment in the opening miles sets the tone. Eccentric loading (downhill intervals, single-leg squats, long training runs with significant descent) should be a consistent element of your build from at least 10 weeks out. Arriving at Foresthill with functional quads is worth more than arriving quickly with wrecked ones.
Altitude if you're from sea level. The course starts at 6,200 feet and climbs to 8,750 feet in the opening miles. If you live and train below 3,000 feet, arriving the day before the race is largely ineffective for acclimatization. Spend at least five days at comparable altitude in the weeks before, or arrive by Monday of race week at the latest and accept that the first 15 miles will feel harder than they should.
Race Week and Race Day
Arrive by Wednesday. Medical screening and gear check are required on Thursday, and the race starts at 5:00 AM Friday. Runners who travel on Thursday consistently report it added to their stress.
Crew access: The course has 24 aid stations, but the meaningful crew points are Michigan Bluff (mile 55.7), Foresthill (mile 62), Cal-2 (mile 70.7), and Rucky Chucky (mile 78). Plan your crew strategy around these stops. Foresthill is the fulcrum — it's where pacers join, shoes change, night gear gets picked up, and honest conversations about the last 38 miles happen.
Pacers can join at Foresthill (mile 62) and stay with you to the finish. Choose someone who understands that their job in the final miles is presence and navigation, not pace.
Finishing: Sub-24 hours earns the silver buckle. Sub-30 earns the bronze. The awards ceremony is Sunday morning at the Placer High School track. It's worth staying for — you'll meet people who've run this race 20 times.
The Western States lottery accepts applications every November. Your odds improve each year you enter without being drawn, and for many runners the wait is measured in years. When you finally stand at the start in Olympic Valley at 4:50 AM on a June morning — in the dark, with 5,000 feet of climbing ahead before the canyons arrive — the weight of the lottery, the history, and the distance all become the same thing. The race asks you to have done the work. Whether you have is already decided.